Monday, October 19, 2009

Alexander McQueen is not of this World.


I've never, in all these years, seen anything quite like this collection. McQueen's Spring 2010 is a tour de force of technique, technology and a laser sharp vision. The fabrics were consistently printed digitally. This method of printing is the portal to the future. I first discovered and bought fabrics with this printing technique from Jakob Schlaepfer of St. Gallen Switzerland and another otherworldly firm, Fabric Frontline of Zurich about 5 years ago. The technique was life like and yet so delicate and nuanced that one was struck dumb by it's possibilities and beauty.

Alexander has taken this technique, together with the mills responsible for it's execution, to unforeseen heights. The effects which they've created are the colors and textures of deep, under sea and reptile life. It's actually difficult to tell if one is looking at amphibious life or life from other star systems. The absolute mystery of the visual in this collection causes one to suspend all attempts at finding references and just give oneself over to a sensory journey with no beginning or foreseeable end. You won't want it to end. I didn't.

This collection has all the elements of his skill, the skill of his brilliant workrooms and together he creates a world that is utterly complete. It isn't an easily accessible one, but it's terrible beauty is at once disturbing and transcendent. I am at a loss of words to acceptably describe what I saw, only that I was moved in a way that was utterly foreign to my taste and experience, and it's something that I'll long remember; a benchmark that many collections in the future will be compared to. The dresses, the cut of the clothes and their precisionfit is juxtaposed with the ultimate design of the shoe. There were no shoes that were developed to this extent. To try to label them as platform shoes does them an unforgivable disservice. These were another species all together.

I must just show images and let you draw your own conclusions. I don't want to spoil it further with my words which, at best, hopelessly stumble in the darkness.

6 comments:

texastrailerparktrash said...

The fabrics are gorgeous and I can see them being translated into very wearable clothing off the runway. But those shoes! They're almost hoof-like. They look like a broken ankle waiting to happen. (I fell off a pair of platform wedges back in the 70s, and honey, it was not fun.)

chris in sf said...

he's a genius... that said, his men's clothes are kinda boring by comparison... I mean, if you go out with a female friend who's sporting a look from this collection and you happen to be wearing the men's counterpart... well, it would look like you're going to a costume ball of some sort... Jack the ripper with alien queen... why is it that so many times the men's collections do not reflect the women's from the same house? it not just him, it seems to be the norm. not that I would want to saunter down the street covered in silk chiffon but, I am tired of the sam old over-price jeans, cargo pants, sneakers and Tees... and a suit is just another boring suit...

tarleisio said...

It seems I wasn't the only one completely blown away by this collection - and, for that matter, by his F/W 09 collection back in March. What I admire most about McQueen is his total, utter lack of compromise - in terms of technique, which is flawless, so far as I can see - and his likewise uncompromising artistic vision. In a day and age where fashion more and more is judged in terms of saleability, or wearability, McQueen has with this collection reminded us in no uncertain terms what fashion can also be - an art form all its own, with its own terms and its own merits. So much this season has been different variations on a theme - lingerie, sheer, short, and very little has actually dared to say something unique.

This collection is unique. Like you said, Fluff - we've never seen its like - and likely, we never will again!

Simone said...

I too am blown away my A.McQ's vision and artistry. He leads the pack on introducing concepts while still maintaining his recognizable hand. His skill has only improved as the years have progressed. With that said it is when that overall vision is dissected into small digestable bits that are truly wearable to present to most of us that the art turns to fashion while still remaining art...(those shoes are total fantasy that may inspire but I doubt most will wear them unless they are slaves to a look)

Crosscurrents said...

Alexander McQueens truly inspires me with his mens and womens collection. I look forward to the shows in Paris and can't wait for Mr. McQueen to show his always innovative collection. While living in Paris, I had the great opportunity to go into the showroom and see the womens collection up close. The fabric, textures, prints and draping was magical.I was mad for his fashion since....

missnash.com said...

I totally disagree with you, Fluff - your words perfectly sum-up the McQueen SS10 experience.
I tried my best to put feelings and reactions into words as well, (www.missnash.com) but i fear I may have missed the mark as well - hence the huge pictures in place of a thousand words!
I love your blog, your writing style and your point of view. Keep it up!
Miss Nash