Monday, February 1, 2010

Riccardo Tisci's Loopy Givenchy Spring Couture 2010

I'm probably the last person who should tackle this collection. I was an apprentice under Givenchy when he still drove the bus. Though I was only 21 at the time and could see that the collection needed to shift into 5th, I still was acutely aware of his mastery and the absolute rigor of his eye and taste. It was a glorious experience to sit and watch his Haute Couture collections take shape. Well, time passes and the freight train that is Fashion morphs into a bullet train that waits for no one.

Riccardo Tisci , the present conductor has always been an anomaly to me. I've rarely "gotten" what melody he's humming. The chords are constantly shifting and there is little of his tune I grasp or follow. This season's Haute Couture collection is another riff that to a large degree escapes me. When I read about the press hailing his mastery of the Pret a Porter and now his supposed firm grip on the wheel of the Couture, I wonder which track are they racing on. Is it the train that pulls onto Platform 9 3/4 ? It's a mystery.

Looking at this collection, I see some great details but very little that reads as a whole. The atelier at Givenchy are still run by master tailors and drapers. There doesn't seem to be enough fuel being pumped to their very capable hands. Some of the jackets are beautiful, especially the one with ostrich feathers spilling out underneath. Is it Tisci's brilliance as a tailor that makes the shape so clear, sharp and pleasing? Or is it an amazing director of the Atelier for tailored pieces having a chance to flex his muscles. I'd love to say the same for the genius women in charge of Flou. They are shortchanged. The one dress that was layers of spiral cut ruffles of satin organza was an opportunity to show that atelier's skill. His ability to design with abstract patterned lace is quite good. It's something I've always looked for an appreciated. The 2 evening looks in black are perfect examples.

More of the time, Tisci's efforts strike me as amateurish and heavy handed. Vulgarity is too often the quality that taints the collection. The first look is a dress that no woman with a healthy self respect would wear in public. I have little patience or any interest in clothes that neither fit or elevate women. The last gown doesn't fit....that just doesn't fly when it's the Couture.

7 comments:

Divalocity said...

I did see a few pieces from the collection that were wearable. He certainly has been using Ciara as a muse lately and honestly, she looks great wearing his designs.

Anonymous said...

His first couture shows years ago at the helm of Givenchy were interesting. But now they're just blah....you could have told me this was pret-a-porter collection and I wouldn't have known.

Anonymous said...

Fashion in general just seems off this year. I blame it on the topsy turvy economic environment we find ourselves in.

Anonymous said...

Well Fluff if one positive thing that can be said of Lacroix's demise is that he doesn't have to watch the House/name he built up be abused like Monseiurs Givenchy, Valentino, and Ungaro. Right?

To think, Givenchy used to be known for having beautiful wearable clothes that women were crazy for?! No, it wasn't groundbreaking but solid design and elegance. Those are long ago days sadly. I too remember th days of the Master of the House...it pains me that he's lived to see this.

BTW, that purple dress seemed not only to NOT fit the model, but to be poorly sewn. Given that this is couture, these two issues are unpardonable. The poor sewing surprised me given that the atelier is known for good work, but since the rest of the collection was well sewn, I wonder if that dress was a rush job. If so, they needn't have bothered.

brooksie

Simone said...

I must agree with Feb 3 Anon's comment - "Fashion in general just seems off this year". For me the state of fashion is always evident in its translation by the pattern companies. Pattern companies usually issue their seasons based on the influence of the runways, even if it is in it's most simplest form, the silhouettes always seem to echo the moment. As someone who has studied and learned couture techniques and enjoys using the special shaping, details and finishes to make her own garments I have yet to purchase a pattern this past year that reflects any designer's show "star" garment. Or maybe it's because there have been no drop dead silhouettes that stick in the mind long enough for me to recognize them....

Shaun said...

Times change. And there isn't just one form of couture in my opinion. Today, If you can afford couture, you want fresh, young, modern Givenchy does for RTW, but with the details and handmade quality that couture offers.

by the way. I agree with divalocity, Ciara seems to be Riccardo's latest muse, and doing a great job modeling the couture collection at various events!

Anonymous said...

I do agree that Tisci has a hard time really communicating something coherent, wearable and modern. it's always a mix of trendy and kind of outer space (i'm thinking of that black halo "hat"). anyway, the reason that Givenchy clothes might seem badly made is that there is no more atelier nor genius "flou" women in Paris, no fittings, no patternmaking, nothing. just drawings, then everything is sent to Italy. At least the demise of Tisci could mean leaving space for newer more inventive talents...