There isn't any. Fashion is designed to a large degree to separate ,stratify and stigmatize the general public. The concept of it 's purpose as one of flattering the body, empowering the wearer and enabling one to move more confidently through this maze of life is something of a myth.
Fashion this season is for many and from many a vehicle to hamper, and impede the forward movement of our culture. The fashion I am focusing on is the higher end , not the mass end that does the same thing, but out of ignorance and a total lack of imagination.
This is the eve of the Spring '09 collections and I predict we will see a huge change in the general mood of STYLE. It's going to get worse. I'd venture to say it could be a season so without inspiration or direction that we all might as well stay in our underwear and just white knuckle it til next season.
I can't imagine a new trend, a tidal wave that will wash us clean and in it's wake bring a new concept of dressing. I imagine standing water, fetid with the heat of the summer and it's indecision . A season that will reflect the confusion and disillusionment of this country and all that we've held dear. In fashion terms that usually translates to static,and more of the sameness.
There will be one or 2 moments of brilliance, probably coming from Calvin Klein, possibly from Donna Karan and the army of tried and true designers who go unnoticed, Shawn Ray Fons, Angel Sanchez, Isabel Toledo, Heidi Wiesel, Eskandar,Robert Danes, etc. will most likely deliver collections that are inspired, valid and fresh. They do it again and again. Harder, tougher times seem to bring out the steel in these designers. It's the value of experience and also the result of being somewhat underdogs.
The newer kids on the block are generally untested and more susceptible to the vagaries of the climate....black clouds, howling winds and Hurricane Judas. There will be standouts, but fewer than usual. Either too much or precious little. Hopefully we'll be spared some of the filler that grows like a fungus each season, taking up more and more space on the Fashion calendar.
Heatherette ,6 as 2, Marchesa, and so many other over-hyped collections will hopefully lay low. Troubled ones like Blass and Claiborne and Anne Klein will be almost silent . Oscar and Kors and Ralph and Marc will be in the face of us all, but perhaps with something to see, to feel to want. Carolina, BMishka and other tired collections will come and go swiftly and if we're all lucky the weekend will come, life will return to normal and we can continue with the business of our lives.
I'm curious to see what the creative designers will do: Ralph Rucci, Ralph Rucci, and did I say Ralph Rucci? Rodarte may come upon with something poetic and life reaffirming, but most won't. Beyond them, one can envision a sea of sameness. Perhaps Marc Jacobs will deliver a 1 2 punch, but with all the press he's been getting, I fear he's distracted or pressured to be brilliant...or both so we'll have to wait and see.
Peter Som,Proenza Schouler, Philip Lim,Zac Posen and so many others will be interesting in the way car wrecks are. You can't look away but what you see can be truly frightening.
As I am a hopeless optimist, I'm sure this foreboding is without merit. It will be a glorious season , filled with new directions,fresh ideas, reasons to shop and dress and strut. It's probably just something I ate, or the fact that the world is going to hell in a Kate Spade bag.
Dianne von Furstenburg will bring us all together. Isaaac will give us all a reason to laugh and the economy will suddenly take a hard turn and shoot for the stars.
Meanwhile, fasten your seat belts, stock up on provisions and buy a very good book...
One with words.
On the Street…The Fortezza, Florence
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