It's an endless line up of shows that in many cases should never have seen the spotlights of the tents. Many of you out there and I include the press and editors of consequence, who feel these collections are news and important. here is hopefully a quick and painless review of what happened.
Zac Posen, (right) another young gun showman with surprising resources of imagination and money to back it up. the money being The Puffy formerly known as Diddy! Mommy Posen is one of the most shameless stage mothers one could be cursed with. Anyway, there were many looks in this collection that all were examples of technical fireworks, strange padding added to hips to exaggerate the shape a la Dior '54 ,. Still the draping on some of the silk jersey cocktail dresses and leopard printed chiffons were really eye catching. I just wish he would be quiet and just work. The star studded attitude and audience is a bit tired and so is his wonder boy persona. It's just a dress.....
Vera Wang (below) opened her closet and sent it down the runway again. This girl is a shopper and thinks nothing of knocking her favorite buys and putting them on the runway.There was a dress that was very beautiful, black silk razimir, borrowed from Francisco Costa, that was fresh and beautiful. But layers of organza tunic/t-shirt tops over leggings is just dull after the first 10 or 15 versions. With her Kohl's deal, the bridal empire,perfumes and of course her Sleepy's "Let's sleep with Vera" license, why bother with clothing that is obviously her ego run amok each season.
Proenza Schouler is just beyond me. No words come to mind to describe the collection, their popularity and power in the marketplace and press. The collection was not a collection. It was some overalls which will be the most expensive you'll ever buy, jumpsuits in lame and beading which only the most desperate will wear to get attention; remember bad attention is better than no attention and then dresses that said nothing. Money talks /Bullshit walks. In their case they are 2 major multi-taskers: they've managed to do both!
Marc Jacobs collections( both) are the most sought after tickets of the season. If a bomb went off in the Armory at those shows , we would have a truly free world, that is if you look at 7th ave. as the world...and so many of the acolytes of fashion do. But nothing catastrophic happened except hundreds of the same looks came down the runway in the most random mix of high/low luxe fabrics and crowned with Steven Jones hats. It looked like a replay of an Alvin Ailey production of Revelations, minus the intermission. When that riff was exhausted, out came an ode to YSL. Smokings, the Chinoise collection and a little of the Russian one too but with all the structure and stuffing removed. Those creations were so dramatic the first time because of the structure and technique that went into their creation. This time they looked purchased from a costume shop. There was one long draped orange gown that was worth all of the other stuff. He is becoming an American expatriate version of John Galliano in his appearance and I fear in his imagination. It must be good to be the king.
Comment if you like, your opinions count for a lot....is anyone out there?????
On the Street…Grand Palais, Paris
1 day ago