What a cool space in which to show. What an interesting crowd, more arty than most with the exception of the usual suspects. Thankfully, none of the sad photo-op phreaks were in attendance with the exception of Rachel Zoe and her barely concealed angry pout. The Vogue team was in attendance with many people around me continuing the "Grace Gush". Anna at one point took her eyes off the runway and read her emails for 7 exits, not looking up once. At other times she looked away from the runway,even though the models were all headed straight for her. Curious behavior. It was again a major shoe story in the audience but augmented with some of the most captivating jewelry I've witnessed in one place. The crush was hard to take with photographers blocking sight lines with no regard for the audience, but that's fashion!
Having recently looked closely at Donna's collection from last season in so many humble fabrics like linen, cotton and silk jersey, the prices are anything but affordable. The accessories are the same. So much of it is so wearable, artistic yet friendly, but totally out of reach. Her embrace of all things indigenous and green is antithetical to the price tag, but call me square.
The first exits were all frayed-edged, scrunched linen jackets belted over skirts and slim pants. Colors were so washed out, they looked like air at different points of the day. A beige python suit slithered by that was way over the top deluxe, especially as it was cut so artlessly. The glamor of it was staggering. The draping of countless silk jersey dresses in clay, and pewter were dreamy in their off handedness. It was so sexy that probably every woman ached to wear one. My only hesitation was that Donna has a way of doing those looks over and over with little variation that it feels like and endless chorus of the same hymn. There were wrap dresses cut in circles and wedges with asymmetrical lines to the necks and hems and straps that gave things a very organic feel. Nothing was obvious. Everything was an unexpected creation suggesting one idea as it approached and answering the question to the contrary as it passed.
When the long evening looks appeared there was what appeared to be silver leaf applied to the fabric in a random way. Each a sea of grey that was very rich. They whispered more than spoke though their effect was more like a roar. Still,came more draping of decoupe silk velvet and silk jersey twisted and caught with the most delicate straps. It was a Donna collection done the way only Donna can. The jewelry shown, mostly necklaces were all about scale. What appeared to be an ivory bead necklace the size of eggs was probably re claimed carved mammoth tusks, all very correct, but wow! Talk about LARGE. Scale and the beauty of materials is the beginning and end of what made it all so luxe.
It was my first live outing to a Donna Karan show and was well worth having my view obstructed by a hulking mountain of a photographer. I look forward to the Fall collection. I can only guess how expensive it will be. The recession doesn't appear to be a concern of Donna's. Perhaps her feeling is that she can afford it, so the rest of us can, too. Before the parade of all the models, (what a fantastic line up of beauties) I looked over to take in Anna's reaction but Ms. Wintour had already left the building. Federer or Fashion...Fashion or Federer ?
On the Street…Viale Umbria, Milan
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