Friday, September 18, 2009
Peter Som: The Nana Diaries ...and Doo.Ri
Peter Som sent out a collection that was better than his most recent ones. It again was a styling project. A dress, top or skirt under a little coat was finished with a dollop of a Granny hat perched on top. There is something decidedly cool, very moneyed-hipster girl about these clothes. She's eclectic. Perhaps she went to Dalton instead of Chapin and ended up at Barnard instead of Yale. This girl wants proximity to the center of the action. She likes her fashion Lite. Well that's exactly what she finds in this collection. Lady-ish young clothes all put together in unexplained ways.
A very cute short skirt in a floral print with a top and coat was one of my favorites,very gamine in an insoucient sort of way. Beyond that the hats were the leit motif that ran through a collection of odd ball pieces. To make draped dresses in cotton or other relatively stiff fabrics doesn't register with me. Soft, fluid fabrics lend themselves so much easier to that task. This collection was rife with draping and all of it in cotton,with the exception of a few tops on georgette. All of them looked stiff and cumbersome.It had a down market feel to it. The sweaters and tops in striped knits and a few clean, sleek fitted dresses said it best.
This Pantie as outer wear instead of inner wear is way over my head. I can't see a woman actually walking around with a blouse, jacket and panties at a party unless that party has a theme. Tossing a draped snood on her head and sunglasses that were very vintage in design all added up to a thrift store look. I have to say Peter was one of the very few who didn't buy into the platform shoe directive. His choice of silver pumps and a shocking blue didn't add to the looks cohesion, but it was a step out from the pack.
The still life presentation is great because you can see the quality of the collection. His economy was obvious , but the same fabrics kept showing up in too many pieces.
My overall impression was that of cleaning out the closets of your favorite Nana and instead of donating them to the Church flea market they got sent down the runway. If in fact Peter hooks up with Tommy Hilfiger, I would guess it will be a good match. Their aesthetic will probably meet in the middle. But that remains to be seen and also remains to be announced.
Doo.Ri in contrast did a collection that seemed to have a similar target audience, only her aim was much better. The draping of silk jersey , which she's known for appeared here in very simple sexy wedge minis and in tops paired with skirts with a tiny flutter of jersey at the waist , or over shorts. The overall effect of her broader collection was young, sexy and straight forward in an artsy way. I've not been much of a fan in the past feeling that she churns out looks each season that are too similar. This Spring collection was clearly her voice but seemed to take itself a bit less seriously and looked fresh and interesting. The same sort of artlessness which Som attempted looked forced and self conscious in comparison. These were clothes that would translate easily to many body types and ages. There was a worldliness to it that I found compelling and beautiful.
One of my favorite dresses was a blue jersey fan pleated dress with just enough interest on the bodice and a soft easy skirt. Nothing about it was over-stated or coy. Another dress of draped lace over a silk under dress was also interesting in its use of an unconventional, abstract lace. I like unexpected versions of familiar fabrics, in this case, a chantilly lace that foregoes flowers for what looks more like a spider's web. The platform shoes looked a bit heavy and brutal for clothes that were essentially light and fluid, but that seems to be the law this season. Platforms everywhere, whether they add to the equation or not.