A Season in search of a theme...or a sign of life.

As hard as I search , I can't find one. Have never seen a series of shows that are so ,literally and physically ,all over the place. Not in a good way either......I will have to just take one patient at a time and check for vital signs. Don't think I'm not trying or not caring, just searching for a pulse.

Fall collections: Chapter 1

Abaete:(at left) so so. Nothing newsy just some good hair and make up.

Prabal Gurung:(at right) Blass from the past. Better than Peter Som , but not good enough. Same fabrics, no truly new ideas. A quality of craft that was acceptable but not inspired. Looked too much like M.Vollbracht after a face lift. The real problem was that the clothes didn't look very young(particularly this one) so the idea of a fresh take , a message of the modern was left on the cutting room floor. Admirable start but a voice neither clear or his own.

Charlotte Ronson:(below left) the only point of interest was Lindsay Lohans's presence. The front row looked as bored as the clothes looked boring.It's flannel jammie time.

Peter Som:(right) Stills taken that went straight to video(style.com). No runway, just static clothes in the hobo style. This , that and the kitchen sink. Uninteresting self conscious coolness that was the furthest thing from cool. Hasn't he learned anything at Blass or in his own atelier. A perfect example of ego having gone unchecked. Some designers feel that they must show and that their clothes are runway worthy because they've shown many times before. You must look with an objective eye and be your own toughest critic. This collection looks as though no one said anything but ,"YES". I say ,"Not this time...".

Jason Wu: (below left)Well everyone was there to see the birth of the newly appointed prodigy. Was a middling show with a few pretty things . Most of the exits were naive , technically and artistically. Granted, the pressure must have been crushing. In a situation like that , I think he should have done less and what was done should be done perfectly. To big a hurdle in too short a time. You are allowed to walk before you run. In this case , learn to balance standing still before taking steps . People would appreciate it much more . I would have. His pony was jumping a fence that is suitable for a better schooled and more experienced horse. He has obvious talent, as this dress clearly shows. This was by far the loveliest in all 36....this was #30. I'll even be so obnoxious to say that this would have been a much lovelier, alluring and sexy choice for the Inaugural ball, but that's 20/20 hindsight. No overnight wonders have ever been born in this business. They've all paid their dues. He's no different.

Three as four: (right)Who could see it in that gallery space so crowded you could neither enter or see clothes barely visible over the heads of the unruly crowd. What I did see was more of the same. No news. Well actually the news was they can effectively reproduce the same dress about 12 times with slightly different colors and toss in about 4 suits. So there you have it : 16 looks that look like 2.

Rachel Roy(below) staged an elegant presentation, only it wasn't really hers.It referenced other more memorable collections from last season....mostly Stefano Pilatti's for YSL, but even that is a stretch. These were not horrible clothes, just lifeless and ultimately useless. Some unusual cuts gave one or 2 of the cocktails and gowns some interest, but there was a lack of quality in her choices of fabrics. This dress with lace overlay is a case in point. It looks like inexpensive machine made lace from China. Cheap looking fabrics in awkward proportions do not a collection of NOTE make. It was a lovely staging...more elegant than most of the others, it just would have been nice had it been her voice we heard..... More an inexpert Lip Sync.

You may find my criticism curt and overly critical, but with so many showing and so little worth seeing, I feel compelled to cut to the chase. When it's great (to me) I'll say. Meanwhile, I call it as I see it. I haven't seen much yet. For pics of these collections to judge for yourselves , go to style.com.

More tomorrow......

Happy Valentine's Day

CUPID COMES AGAIN:
a Valentine vers /e
in terza rima
Cupid faced our monetary mess:
a free-fall market and a limp libido.
He tried his tricks: a trickle-down caress,

a plunging neckline Dow, a tiny Speedo,
Botox lips and massive liposuction,
jetting bankers to the sunny Lido,

breast enhancement or a rate reduction.
Nothing worked, not even little pills,
the purple kind, whose chilling, grim instruction

warns us that prolonged tumescence kills.
Four hours are the limit. Such is sex
these days, the body's punch-clock sends out bills

for too much pleasure. Time-accounting wrecks
the fun that primed and pumped up wealthy Cupid.
Is there some way to purge this Wall Street hex?

Something silly, comical, and stupid?
Something that the GOP would do?
That's it! A dance revival starring Cupid!

His band, The New Erotics, like the Goo
Goo Dolls, will tour from Vegas out to Frisco.
Forget the Boss, Cobain, and Motley Crue.

Our loverboy is resurrecting DISCO!
Stayin' Alive with mirrored, spinning balls,
and moves so smooth they seem like liquid Crisco.

Wrap-up Rap and Rock. Travolta calls!
Amor vincit omnia! It's clear.
Bell-bottoms reappear on guys and dolls.

So once again St. Valentine's is here!

love, RR
February 2009

Saks is playing with a stacked deck.....

Have you heard that Saks Fifth Avenue is planning on a continuing practice of the slash sale pricing strategy? They feel it is the answer to move forward. This means that the designers , suppliers and all others who put merchandise in their stores will no longer be the masters of their own destiny. So that Saks can keep it's head above water , or level with the surface are going to use, abuse and sacrifice the very companies which have made it so great.
When their credit rating was downgraded to "RISKY" , they instituted this brilliant business plan.
Personally, it looks like a huge red flag. Sell merchandise to Saks at your own risk. What is so insidious about this whole deal is that they know how desperate companies and designers are to sell and to sell in their stores. The cachet of selling Saks is so tempting. There are many temptations in life with horrific downsides. This could very well be one of them. One false move and one risks total destruction. It's a gamble with the odds stacked against you.
Saks isn't the only one who's credit was down graded: Neiman Marcus, Nordstroms, Macys and others were too. That means what we knew as the MAJORS have all become risky minors. Companies like Chanel,Ralph Lauren,Dolce and Gabbana, Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs, any and all of the LVMH stable are as much at risk as the smaller houses only they have the capital to take some of these knocks. Others will be much less prepared or protected.
Designers: Proceed with Caution.

Thank God it's Monday

This is the day most dreaded and always the most rewarding. It's impossible to get out of bed , even with 36 hours sleep. It's even harder to make the coffee, step in the shower and think of something to wear . There's a feeling of doom. Many times I get up, have my coffee and then get back into bed.....for 20 minutes unless I actually fall asleep.

Once showered,dressed and subway bound , the day's magic starts to take hold. The activity and hordes of people are a natural stimulant and I find myself getting slightly excited to get the day going. The office is buzzing when I walk in which allows me to catch the first wave. No wading out to deep water, it's plenty deep the moment I walk through the door.

One thing leads to another, to an appointment, calls, emails, problems, problems solved and some new problems coming up behind for good measure. Before I know it, I see progress and it's suddenly 3:00 pm. That's the real beauty of Monday. It tends to fly. A look at the calendar to see what the rest of the week has in store sets me up for the next commitment to the day. That is going out for a bit of mental exercise. Very important for starting the week. It's a way to order what was last week and make way for this one. Once that's done, I take the train home and walk slowly to my haven of coziness.

Once there, I light some candles, set the oh so important lighting, turn on the Bossa Nova and make a big mug of tea. Off come the clothes and then a bit of stretching and physical exercise before dinner. This is by far the best part of the day. I push myself in ways I never thought possible and surprise myself that I'm capable of such exertions at my age. But the feeling is so satisfying that I wish I could muster the discipline to do the same everyday after work.
After a light dinner, off to bed and my book of the moment, Dorothy Parker Short Stories, and lights out at 11:00. As I drift off, I think about how I dreaded the day, but in the end every inch of me is warm, relaxed and ready for the rest of the week. It's probably exactly the same for you.

what I love about Sunday morning

I wake up a little early and jump on my Mac to go for a spin. My morning exercise. Before I get far , assuming I've slept in and it's 10:30, I hear a stirring upstairs. I start writing or reading a bit faster because the beast is stirring. This is my cue to head for the coffee maker and whip up a nice strong Latte with Half and Half and 2 Splendas. The footsteps overhead are starting to shuffle at a slightly quicker pace. This can only mean one thing: the door will open and the day will assume it's new shape. What was me and my Mac will shift to WE. Like every morning for as long as I can remember I'll hear,"Guten Tag". A big sleepy smile from my lanky sleepy mate will shine down from above . The New York Times rests on the gravel at the foot of the driveway. One or the other of us will stumble down to grab it . The coffees are nice and warm, the day is ours to do with as we please. If nothing gets done and we just lounge around , it's one of the most satisfying days of the week.
Enjoy it, I will too.

God doesn't have a favorite Design House

I keep reading that a savior or the Messiah needs to sit in the front row of the collections which debut next week. Many consider that person to be Michelle Obama. Again and again, one reads that if she were to grace the front row it would send a message to the world that she will wave a magic wand and turn around this ailing industry. If only it were so simple. The truth is that it isn't her job, obligation or responsibility to do this. More so, it's not going to make any sort of difference. And most importantly, Mrs. Obama has more integrity and sense of purpose . The job of turning this situation around rests on all of OUR shoulders.

WWD wrote this week regarding the Credit Rating downgrades of several major department stores.This was not a surprise but still shocking. When that list included Nieman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue,Macy's and Nordstrom's, that pretty much killed the concept of their majority. These retailers have been the backbone of the American retail landscape as we've known it. There is a fundamental paradigm shift in the minds of the modern consumer..... they no longer consume.

When you consider this bitterly cold , hard fact you have to question the point of NY Fashion week. What does it hope to accomplish? How will it change and alter the prevailing mood? The solutions to this stalemate are a mystery ,but also very simple. You/we/all of us who can, must make a concerted effort to try to do something.Fashion is just one small facet of this struggling economy. There are many more grave situations that make this seem petty and frivolous. Nevertheless, it is an industry that many of us work in, have given our lives to and have been sustained by. The effort needs to come from us. Those of us who can in some small or larger way must take that step.

Like sit-ins in the 60's , we should stage SHOP-INS. They can be anywhere at any time. Get some friends together, it's more fun and effective in numbers, and go to a store and buy something. Hit the sale racks and get something useful. It could be as small as a lipstick or as big as a great gown that has been marked down to the ground. If we did this in stores of all levels once or twice a month or more and kept it up for a solid year, we might see a shift. That means 25 to 50 purchases over the next year for each of us. If some of those purchases are at full price for the fortunate ones who can afford it, then even better.

Perhaps Michelle Obama's wisest gesture is to make a point of purchasing the clothes she wears whether privately or publicly. THAT would be an example for all ....yes, that includes you too, CELEBRITIES.