Tuesday, March 9, 2010

FASHION ALERT


Before returning to the business at hand , I feel it necessary to send out an APB to the style community. This is a heads up to us all regarding what is and isn't vital to the Fashion Machine. The time has come to slough off the faux, clear the hall of smoke and sweep up the shards of broken mirrors. Let's look at Ungaro the collection, and leave Lindsey to the Lawyers, and that goes for all the other pretenders to the thrones of the world. Enough bilious bull !!!!!
The Lars, Blass, Wu's, Miz, Galliano, Halstons, Soms, (too many to name and that goes for editors of papers and mags, they know who they think they are) weak Design programs of weak Colleges, and everything out there that is cobbled together with glue, spit and the ideas of others: Let's just step over it and take our seats. If a cameraman is rude and knocks you in the head to get a better shot of Anna or any other personage of questionable merit, then use your gift bag of makeup and smear it on his lense. He'll think twice the next time. Let's set our standards higher and put our efforts into applauding the do-ers and not the do-ees.

This came to me while watching RuPaul's Drag Race, about 4 straight hours of it. She doesn't stand for dissent and dirty tricks and neither should we. At this crucial hour so very late in the game it's time, in her inimitable words to, "Lip-Synch for your Lives"! That means ALL of us. She takes it a step further and commands, "....and don't F#$%&* It Up." It's as simple as," Chante", or, "Sashay, Away".

For those who interpret my TWITTER-SIZED MANIFESTO AS BITTER OR MEAN SPIRITED, .....WHATEVER. Take my word for it, I'm happy. I just want to see design that moves me and an industry that I'm proud to be a part of.

That said, I can return to the dream which is Paris!

signed: BATTLE AXE GALLACTICA (my new RuPaul Drag name...)

Monday, March 8, 2010

82nd Oscars : The Train Wreck

My first impression as far as the fashion show was concerned, was that this was the largest Train wreck in the history of the Oscars. There were so many gowns with unwieldy and unwearable trains that the actresses looked seriously at risk. From Jennifer Lopez's regrettable Armani Prive creation, which would have better been kept prive to Zoe Saldana's Carmen Miranda inspired Givenchy these girls were in need of assistance. Both were disappointments , but I expect it from Lopez, I didn't from Zoe. Every one's stylist, and yes, I blame the stylists, was under the misapprehension that the event called for a major gown with major volume. That volume was monotonously played out in the caboose department.

Navigating the Red Carpet, the seats, the stairs and the walk across the stage was painful to watch. So many of the actresses both young and older were so lovely that these cumbersome gowns did little more than take away from their beauty. Hair was all over the place, but mainly piled on or behind their heads. Sarah Jessica Parker was one of the most obvious casualties in both hair and gown categories. The Chanel Couture dress was a risky choice that would have worked better on someone taller. Her hair piece was so obviously nailed on that I had trouble appreciating it. Worst of all were the buckets of Man-Tan slathered all over her face and body. It was a blessing for the folks back on the Rue Cambon that it was just about as yellow as her gown....the stains won't show as much. Standing next to her husband Mathew Broderick looking cadaverous with no makeup at all, threw her coloring into even more stark relief.

Mo'Nique was attractive in Tadashi Shoji's blue draped gown, but fit is everything and it fit too tight in places that could have been better camouflaged. Her win was fantastic and her hair and makeup were glamorous. Charlize Theron in Dior Couture should know that sitting for hours in duchesse satin does nothing more than create a very rumpled gown. The rosettes on her bust were beyond comment. Kate Winslet's YSL, too, was beyond comment. I think yellow diamonds should be taken off the market. They are banal, over worn and wholly without mystery. No one considers fancy colored diamonds in blue, pink, brown or green. Yellow has been done.

Vera Farmiga of Up in the Air fame chose a Marchesa claret pleated ruffle number that someone described as a couture bed skirt. Peneolpe Cruz was beautiful in Donna Karan, a very couture draped gown but looked slightly overwhelmed by it. Demi Moore in Versace, pulled off the perfect look that straddled the fence between too much and just right. The over-emphasis on Spanish dancer ruffled trains was perfectly proportioned on her dress, not to mention the exquisitely draped bodice and mysterious color. Speaking of mysterious color, I loved the Elie Saab gown worn by Anna Kendrick also of Up in the Air fame. She was lovely, even if the gown looked more like a Chanel knock off. The shade of pale pink was fantastic. Carey Mulligan, the ingenue in An Education in Prada was one of the few who looked great even with a major train. It helped that the gown was shorter in front which balanced the over all look of the dress. She wore one of the few black gowns of the evening which was a perfect counterpoint to her pixie, white blond hair and alabaster skin.

Marchesa was a big player last night dressing a number of actresses including Gabourey Sibide. Sandra Bullock, the big winner of the night,also dressed in Marchesa, looked every bit the movie star in her silver gown of crystal embroidered twigs and leaves on nude tulle and a long sinuous skirt of hammered silver panne velvet. I could have done with less of the crystals on the back of the skirt, but she was glamorous and elegant in her overall presentation. Her hair was straight and long, her lips were extremely red and the jewels were discrete. What you really saw was her....a siren in full command. She rocked my world. Queen Latifah looked well enough, but she needs someone to give her some sexier choices and not gowns that scream," Big and Bad". That gown looked manhandled and ill proportioned. God is in the details. Again, plain, unadorned duchesse satin is a killer if you're not standing.

The Grande Dames of the occasion looked good but were not that moving one way or the other. Helen Mirren tends to make very mediocre choices, like her frothy, tulle Badgley Mischka. This was a bit on the Mother of the Bride side with an obligatory attached train just below her not so tiny tush. That's an attention grabber where you don't need it. Had the back not been so fitted and had flowed away at the low hip, it would have read REGAL. It didn't, so it didn't. Meryl Streep looked nice, but only that...nice. When you're that great and that successful you're allowed a PASS. Oprah also looked very M.O.B. (Mother of the Bride) but, hey.....Kathryn Bigelow looked very chic and unfussy; a very sexy , good looking, mature woman. I was mesmerized by her and her genuine spirit.

Cameron Diaz looked pretty good in sparkly, tulle Oscar, but not as glamorous or sexy as usual. I missed seeing Angelina Jolie. She usually adds to the glamour quotient. Gabourey Sibide was suitably lovely in her gown and jewels. It was thrilling to see such a young woman without the look of the establishment look like a princess at her own ball. I couldn't stop thinking about Precious and her character's dream sequences where she goes to the huge party and is celebrated by all of the masses. Well, last night that dream came true.

Jeff Bridges was very cool and my hands down choice for the Best Actor award. I must say that two of the very best looking men there were Colin Firth, probably in Tom Ford and Jake Gyllenhaal in Burberry. Those guys were spotless and impossibly elegant. Tom Ford surprised me in a suit of his own design that looked too tight and ill fitting. Julianne Moore , for that matter was sharing the same luxury dinghy. I'd have to say Maggie Gyllenhaal was a standout in Dries Van Noten. It was completely original in it's simplicity of cut and unusual print. The other dream on the carpet would have to be Rachel McAdams in digitally printed chiffon Elie Saab. The over sized floral print, with a fabulously draped bodice and multi-layered skirt was in smokey pastels. It was an absolute KNOCK OUT.

High Definition TV is a beautiful thing. Everything is so unbelievably crisp and clear. This will pose a problem for many as the hands of time continue to grind away. Bad skin, bad cosmetic surgeries and bad cosmetics show up glaringly harsh. When you factor in that the average tv screen is 46" we're all getting a peek that's more up close and personal than ever before. So for all of the unfortunate choices made, and all the rampant gum chewing that went on, the Hollywood Cognoscenti need to think twice before going live. Get to the theatres, Netflix or Blockbuster and catch what you missed. The films this season were extraordinary, despite the side show which aired last night.

Saturday, March 6, 2010

The Story with Dick Gordon: Take 2


I had the unexpected pleasure of a call from Carol, the producer of the NPR affiliate station at the University of N.Carolina at Chapel Hill which airs a reality based radio show called, "The Story with Dick Gordon". They interviewed me back in September 09 for this story and it turned out to be a popular segment when it aired then. Carol called to inform me that they were planning to run it again as an Academy Award related amusement.... and it certainly was amusing the first time around. I got a lot of nice emails and thousands of visitors to this blog, so I was happy and so was Fluff. For those of you who are not that well acquainted with either of us, this will give you a little taste and a bit of the history that brings us to this moment.

I hope you enjoy it. Meanwhile, I will continue working on my stories on Balenciaga, Rochas, Dior, Givenchy, YSL, Hashe, etc. and then back to NYC for the few that I have yet to talk about. Have a great weekend and thanks for taking the time to listen. Just click and sit back with some popcorn!

http://thestory.org/archive/the_story_986_Eric_Gaskins.mp3/view

EricGaskins.com: his website.

Thursday, March 4, 2010

Versus Fall 2010: They're Snorting Kool-Aid !

Donatella couldn't be happier, now that Christopher Kane has been hired to cover her skin tight, leather clad butt. This, his second season with the label, finds him still applying pressure to it's sunken chest and breathing what must be cigarette smoke into its collapsed lung. That's right, lung, singular. I was awoken in the night by a ding sound emanating from my IPhone alerting me to an email update. Leaving for Savannah today, left me in a light agitated sleep so I woke up and reached for the phone. I thought it could be that message informing me that my new glamorous life, filled with excitement, brilliant fashion show invitations, con-fabs set up back to back with some of the most influential movers and shakers in every business of interest, even invitations to sit at the head table to the right of Tavi, BryanBoy, Susie Bubble, but to the left of Scott Schuman, The Snotorialist*, and yes down near the end of that impossibly long banquet table out of Anna's sight line. But it wasn't my salvation email, it was a sad update on Versus, Christopher Kane and Dame Anna's machinations to maneuver him into some new and unrealistic position. It was a report on the Queen's favorite. After reading it I couldn't go back to sleep thinking about the strong arm mafia tactics of the Conde Nasty Gang. They should be on that cheese ball show "America's Most Wanted".

I dragged myself from bed with a king sized headache and sat down to my crystal ball (MacBook) and decided to gaze into the standing water drainage ditch that is Milan and dig around for Versus. I found it and I must say I was supremely confused. How is it that Anna sees something so marginal in this guy. I can understand Donatella's confusion, she's an addled mess. I guess Anna is just an old mess. Looking at Kane's eponymous collection for London's Spring season I was baffled at all the hoopla. I went back to a collection he did for his own collection for Spring 2009. I saw really fantastic things there. Imagination, wildly ambitious technique and excitement that would surely elicit interest and even suggest sales... what a novel concept. I've included pictures from that collection to illustrate my point. These suggest big things for his future. The Versus outings negate that brilliance. They appear to have come from another source. I wonder how taste , an aesthetic rigor and conviction can just simply escape one. Is it the 'take the money and run' syndrome?

Well Versus looked like a $10.00 retread of tired , musty old Versace. Every single dress was a redo. They were so abbreviated and entangled with straps and bras that it seemed that Donatella announced over the cafeteria loudspeaker that there was a 1.5 meter limit for fabrics on all dresses. It was signature satin everywhere and dresses were repeated verbatim or the 2 styles that were the collection were bred to produce a hybrid 3rd style. The only part of the collection that looked fresh were a couple of very fitted leather jackets that were great. The pleated circle skirts under them were so Lolita and so oft repeated that I didn't notice them any more. Color was pretty. He used a beautiful blue and green and a rich shocking red, but otherwise there were a couple of unexplained mud shades. The shoes were hideous, a close friend's FAVORITE adjective, and the make up was street walker subtle. Deep red lips that seemed to whisper, "For a nickel I will....."

So back to Anna's big plans for Kane. I say, "Good for him!" God knows there's not that much out there to be gotten, but why does it go to the ones that don't really have the cojones to work it? Well, that's life in the break down lane.

*Snotorialist, because he's not a particularly pleasant character, especially if you make the horrific faux-pas of complimenting his work. Some people just don't know how to accept a compliment gracefully. I get the feeling that graceful isn't an adjective that describes Scott.....




No models were abused or starved, just bored stiff.

Monday, March 1, 2010

Bottega Veneta Fall 2010: Running on Empty

What happened? Where did all the momentum from the last 5 collections go? This concept car of a collection was rocketing to the stratosphere and then poof, the gears got jammed in neutral. Is it the Toyota effect? Did the collection move too fast and far, that it jumped the median and got creamed by an oncoming bus? Or did Tomas Maier just change his mind, and pull over onto the soft shoulder and decide to take a.....nap? Whatever he decided it was a disappointing direction he took this season filled with scenery that was both derivative and redundant.

These criticisms don't come easily from me. I'm the guy who would buy every single thing in his women's and men's collections in seasons past. There was a modernity, an abstract approach towards cut, color and detail that was so engaging and original, but more importantly to me, imminently wearable. I didn't see that this time. I saw repetition, a referencing of YSL, Lanvin and clothes that bore little relation to Maier's aesthetic. There was a hardness in the leathers that was not ironic. There was nothing soft about them, only a jaded quality that seemed foreign. His women didn't look world weary as much as they appeared tired.
Fashion that speaks to disillusionment is not out of context, but it's a sad commentary.

That said, I saw things in the collection that were still very beautiful. There were draped jersey dresses and all-in ones that looked great along with some very rich alpaca coats with very smart bags. His take on a suit or 2, though very Saint Laurent in feeling were handsome. One leather outfit near the beginning was hard but at the same time impossibly sexy. Sleek leather works for me in ways that slouchy leather doesn't. The slouch brings back memories of Claude Montana. The Queeny, messy Claude, not the brilliant one. A designer can't be expected to hit a home run every season, but one with Maier's experience doesn't often strike out.

The gowns at the end felt like repeats of last season without any effort to move them forward. The cocktail dresses looked like sugary sweet confections more in the lexicon of Lanvin. The pleated gauze dresses were much more interesting, but were inexplicably paired with awkward leather boleros that canceled out their softness.The red gown is just the look that will end up on the red carpet, but it's an also ran when you compare it to the black beauty shown next to it. When the cellophane chiffon gown turned up at the Golden Globes on Sandra Bullock I was concerned. That direction gave me paws. That was for me not Bottega Veneta,

There's always next season. Perhaps Tomas Maier's focus on his own eponymous collection has divided his focus and energy.

Prada Fall 2010: Or as they say on Long Island, "Pradders"....

The Fall 2010 collection is a real feast. From Filet Mignon to Fish sticks and every conceivable delectable in betwixt. Prada, or Pradders as many ladies along Long Island's Miracle Mile know and love it, is more than just clothes, it's a state of mind. Every season it moves more in this cerebral direction with clothes that act as visual and tactile triggers taking you to another place, another sensibility, but one that's always informed by the here and now. Shapes and the texture of the fabric along with patterns, prints, colors and accessories did that, again, in a very subversive and effective way.

Just about every single piece was a construction. All the fabrics, whether printed, covered with hand painted plaids in murky mustard, indigo, egg plant or fatigue green, solid plain black or bonded vinyl had an architectural stiffness. This consistent use of stiff fabrics set a tone of archness that was titillating. Little or no flesh was shown. All erotic and sensual effects were achieved by the cut and details of the work. A-line and trapeze shapes all move away from the body, nothing clung to it except for its own essence. Perhaps, it was the sway of the clothes created as models walked through a seeming labyrinth of passages creating a tension and heat. This kind of multi patterned course that Designers and choreographers have created are effective in the tension they create. They not only make the presentation more interactive but the way the models intersect and crisscross one another in multiple points keeps your eye always on the move. It does something else I especially like. One becomes hypnotized with a steady stream of visual and sensory information that drives the message home. In this case the message was exciting, in others it can produce anxiety and an overwhelming urge to run screaming from the room.

There were prim coats, all buttoned up and jackets over skirts, both cut in trapeze shapes that swung away from the body as the models moved throughout this underground world. Moody repetitive jazz drifted along with them creating a smoky, languid atmosphere. I immediately thought that this type of presentation could never happen here. It's uniquely Prada, it's down right un-American. It made my mouth water and my stomach churn. I don't say this because it was so "beautiful" but because it took me to another place. It made me remember things and dream of others. It did what I think fashion is able to do in the most capable of hands. It takes you THERE.

Miuccia Prada pulled out a device from before that I loved: hand painted plaids. They were dark, muddy and so KEWL. Coats, whether in tan vinyl or in thick heavy wool were cut like the coats of Givenchy in the 60's. All shape with no grab. Beautiful collars framed the faces. Busts of dresses, jackets and coats were constructed with darted bodices that were structured or in one or two cases silken and very suggestive.I say this because the model's breasts were either set in place like pointed bra cups of the 50's and 60's or were cupped without support allowing them to both hang and swing in a pendulous way. Ruffles were attached to the bust lines of some totally covered dresses and others that had a cut-out detail at the torso, like a peek-a-boo sliver of skin. They reminded me of the tops of bikinis from Frankie Avalon beach party movies.The skirts were predominately swinging a-line shapes or full dindl shapes which fell below the knee with fitted bodices that again felt very Audrey, but Audrey in a slightly naughty mood. Several looks were made of bonded vinyl looking like patent leather. This was not something I've loved in the past, but they worked here. All of this was paired with woolly tights and patent leather pointed toe high heels or square toed stacked heel shoes. This made me think of the girls in my high school teetering out in their first grown up shoes but with the security of knee socks instead of hose. It was innocence and a deep knowing that filled that underground hot house.

The few dresses and coats that said "Evening" were in black with intricate, over sized jet bead embroideries. They were all perfect, rich and generous, as long as you looked straight at them. The moment they passed there was nothing on the back. Impression, suggestion and then your imagination must complete the thought. That was a treat. I was struck by the audience and its mix of attentiveness and disregard. The camera (I saw a video of the show) constantly landed on Franca Sozzani of Italian Vogue. Every model that walked past her did so with not so much as a glance from the Editor in Chief of Italian Vogue. Maybe she'd seen the collection ahead of time, but it was disconcerting. Conde Nast needs to wake up to its staff. They are a dodgy bunch.