Alexander Wang and Derek Lam

The world of Wang waits for no one. A singular mission has this young dynamo blazing ever new trails in the thicket that is fashion week. His mantra this season comes from his spiritual guide Marc Jacobs. The message in short is ,"Givem' what they don't expect as soon as they're onto you", or something stirringly inspired along those lines. It seems he did just that. Just when everyone was t-shirted out Wang threw a curve ball and put in some beautifully sharp tailored military inspired ,sleeveless jackets over all sorts of trendy, immature leggings , pantie briefs and other confusing things. The tailored jackets that also worked as mismatched suits with prize fighter boxing shorts , or boxing shorts with low slung pants layered over them were an interesting look. Some were in a beautiful cognac leather and others in regulation black.

Someone somewhere said with this collection Alexander drew a line in the sand. I still am not sure what that means. The collection was quirky and at the same time showed his commitment to move forward and show that he has a strong message to put forth. Mainly that message is that he's serious and serious about changing the landscape of contemporary sportswear for today's hipster girls who want to be naughty. It reminds me of an aesthetic both forced and ripe for copying by those cheesy stores downtown filled with weekend tweens from all over the place. The types with little or no parental authority in their lives. There were looks in this collection that definitely would jazz existing things in a young woman's closet but to be taken as complete head to toe outfits , they were a forced march to the land of Trend. The big news was that he premiered his new line of sunglasses: 3 styles. Well they were very Judy Jetson and were actually 1 style made in 3 different colors and materials but all exactly the same shape. This is not a wunderkind that Vogue and others are touting, but another kid with a lucky break riding the wave of early stardom. I wish him luck, he'll need it. When those clothes hang on the rack in retail stores around the country and the world, they will need legs of their own. Without a clever stylist to mix it like a potent cocktail they have an oddly benign quality.




Derek Lam was a lovely collection with many things to excite a woman. He's a different sort of designer with a clearer view of what is cool and what makes women feel and look sexy. I was pleasantly surprised at his obvious taste and solidity. There was a sense of balance that was not evident from several others who've shown thus far. The opening of his show was simple and dramatic. Printed and solid dresses with contrasting cowl draped scarves at the neck were very straight forward, sexy and sophisticated. Such simple and unfussy dresses that any woman would look great in. Crepe was a fabric that appeared again in many styles, most dramatically in deep dark navy. One lonely denim dress was really outstanding. Lots of silk floral prints came down the runway in little dresses that were sexy and cute, but prints are a very personal thing, very subjective. This creates a minor issue if they don't find a way to be strong and interesting enough to appeal to most. The draped cowl scarves at the necks of the opening dresses were easy, they were polka-dots. The florals took more of a chance. There were lots of dresses, tops and skirts that were draped and dolman-sleeved which gave things an artistic and serious beauty. Technique in dress making no matter the message is paramount to a look of quality, value and assurance on the part of the designer.

The one detail that was leitmotif running throughout the collection was a boned midriff either accented with contrasting colors to illustrate their presence or simply seen in the sewing of the garment. Boned, demi-corsets were a constant that gave things a 40's feeling that for me was not modern and took away from the fluidity and ease of the collection. Imagine a beautifully draped dress with flowing neckline and sleeves complete with a twisted and draped skirt and then a 10' high midriff filled with constricting boning.....To my eyes, it sort of defeated the purpose. There were the ubiquitous evening pieces at the shows end that were all spangled and encrusted . One or two were cute and played on the floral print but all alight with sequins and crystals. Then came the all-over gold number that was all garish vulgarity. That was the dress that Rachel Zoe, stylist to the stars took her over sized sunglasses off for and shot a picture. That was the only thing she shot. Her boredom and painfully obvious lack of enthusiasm was broken by that one regrettable dress. That says volumes about the arbiters of taste in Hollywood and their unfortunate reach to so many women everywhere.

Duckie Brown re-examines the Rules.

Duckie Brown, a menswear collection by Daniel Silver and Steven Cox is an example of the evolution going on in design for men. The smart designers are pushing boundaries, no longer satisfied with the status- quo look of standard fare with a new color added or a detail from the past to give it a forward momentum. This collection takes the notion of menswear and turns it upside down. Shapes that are often hard,like jackets, become soft. Fabrics and construction have had the stuffing removed. There is an androgynous feeling to much of the collection which caused me to question my set ideas of what is right and what is louche for me and my fellow Tom cats.

In the opening exits of the show there were 4 pocket safari jackets , all in linen tweeds, belted over draped or pleated shorts. The most unexpected were the jodphur shorts complete with rounded thighs ending above the knee. Other shorts had tiny pin tucked pleats across the front of the waist. One would almost think it was an detail suggesting Indian traditional pants, but it was more deliberate and somehow a Duckie-ism as opposed to a cultural reference. In this uncharted territory I started to feel a shift in the masculine paradigm toward a look that could no longer be so easily classified.An overall feeling of languor and calm permeated everything from shape to fabrics to color. The one consistent jolt of color were the suede Ducks that each model wore. They ranged from a bright blue to saffron yellow to beige. They gave everything a pop that was just the right accent.

I think these two guys like to challenge and play with us a lot of the time. Instead of forcing new ways of looking at clothes and dressing , they cajole you into the deal with humorous and ultimately thought provoking ideas. It started with the most slouchy transparent cashmere sweater that was draped and tucked on one hip only to hang languidly off the opposite hip. With this was a dove grey linen jodphur short with a draped sash at the waist tied in an exuberant bow. Feminine? yes Fun? yes again. There were other tops and shirts that were also sheer and incredibly soft which is the normal turf for the Ladies. On men it is incredibly sexy and not off key if you're willing to hum along. Personally, a silk mousseline button down shirt looked perfectly appropriate by the time I'd been inDuckietrinated. And it didn't take that long.

Bathing suits were another source of wonder in the world of the Duckies. There were a couple of pairs of trunks in particular that captured the mood of change. It was your basic brief but with lots of extra fabric which draped and climbed up the torso of the model. It felt like Rudi Gernreich in a way but also like turn of the century men's one piece trunks which have been pulled off the shoulders to gather and rest on the torso. There were beautiful and put the exclamation point on this collection. Colors were soft, muted and sexy. The hands that made these clothes were gentle and let the fabric take the lead.

My absolute favorite look and the one that in some way was the most subversive was a silk jersey blazer and shirt over short. No big deal only this was like liquid. I've seen this done in other collections but more for women and rarely for men. There's was beyond cool. I am a relatively conservative man when it comes to dressing myself. This suit was the antithesis of what I'd normally wear. My vanity has a built in emergency brake. When that look came sauntering down the runway, passing within inches of my eyes I let out a gasp. I wanted to look like him, be him and have that suit. To hell with feeling self conscious, I would rather feel great. Fantastic was written all over that suit.

Now is not the time to hold back in life. We just don't know what's waiting around the corner or from one moment to the next. I want to enjoy what there is to enjoy which will make the tough stuff easier to bear. If clothes and getting dressed in the morning or at night is a way to stave off the downer that we're all suffering then we should embrace this option and charge ahead. If we can't find a way to make ourselves happy, who the hell do we think is going to do it for us?

Duckie Brown had the best gift on each seat that I've seen so far. It came in a sexy leather drawstring pouch and was a mystery until I got it home. It was AXE deodorant, something we all need even as the temperature begins to drop. There's a lot to sweat these days in life and the boys have thought of yet another essential to add to our arsenal. They think of everything!

Jason Wu

Wu's decision to show at the St.Regis hotel is a very telling point. The self consciousness of his choice mirrors his overly inflated self regard,which is a nice way of saying Jason's starting to believe his own press. That in itself has been the undoing of so many . From the first exit there was an uptight feeling that this young designer had shed the joy and freedom of youth to ape the look and feel of others much older and more experienced.

The over-consistency of each look, one after another was deadening. The suits that opened the collection felt like a hybrid of Oscar de la Renta and Chanel. The cocktail dresses that followed were all variations on the same theme. Little tulip skirts with bodices all joined with satin ribbon belts. They were sweet and youthful but all very short, too short for most women other than his gamine models. As lovely as a few were they too were a constant repetition. The feather embellished pieces that followed were all too reminiscent of past Blass and, again, Oscar. They just didn't feel like his.

What did stand out were a pair of dresses with a staple embroidered detail that looked great. Clearly, Jason Wu is a talented young designer but one that feels more like a hot house flower forced to bloom before nature's time. I can't help thinking that overnight stardom for the very young and unseasoned has it's benefits. World focus can give a much needed bump, but on the other side it causes expectations that few are able to satisfy. Time takes time.

Jason's technique is evident in the draping of chiffon looks but again there was a heavy hand at work. Beauty is a fine line that can be easily overstepped. It's all a question of proportion and degree. I wanted to see a collection that's risen to the heights of hype that accompany his every step.

The future will tell. Jason Wu is a rare bird flapping his wings furiously, only there's still precious little lift.

Prabal Gurung: A young Master.

Prabal Gurung is a very clever and gifted man. Unlike many he chose to show his Spring 2010 collection in a gallery space downtown. The collection was a still life of elegantly tailored and draped styles. Considering this is his second collection it's fully formed and mature in its execution. There was little about it that felt tentative. Prabal has a clear vision and a capable hand to realize exactly the message he intends. Many other young designers with more seasons behind them still feel as though they are in search of a voice, where Prabal speaks clearly and with authority. I read somewhere that he was on the verge. I disagree. Prabal Gurung is a designer with a clear point of view: elegant, cool, modern and timeless in an 'of the moment' way. That's as good as it gets at any level. That translates to clothes with staying power.

Fashion is an investment and the clothes better say today, tomorrow and the future. The collection spoke to those criteria. The focus is clearly Designer, clearly evening and all the degrees of night. There was a very sleek and artless black chiffon bibbed blouse with a shredded ruffle and armholes that were open giving a peek at the shoulder. The very sexy blouse was
tucked into champagne crepe satin trousers. The look was complete with a minimum of detail and fuss. Just chic, young and clear. This was a look that would work for any woman who wants to be dressed, only not in a dress.

There were a group of satin organza cocktail dresses with hand painted abstract floral motifs. These dresses were absolutely beautiful. One in particular was masterfully draped and said it all as though it came to him fully realized. Its simplicity spoke volumes, the work of a designer with a sure hand. That assured approach informed just about every dress in the presentation.

From matte jersey to silk crepe to organza there wasn't one silhouette that daunted his technique. The success of the collection lay in his ability to create clothes that did the thing I love best. They elevate women without overwhelming them. In that way any woman's innate beauty is magnified. A languid column in a saturated blue and one in red with contrasting black were some of the most captivating. This was drama that reads like poetry.

An evening suit of cream silk with one lapel decorated with a single bow was dramatic in its refusal to overstate. Prabal understands the fine line between enough and too much. Horse hair wrapped another cream silk sheath creating a graphic, snaking stripe. He played with graphic black dots on white in another artfully draped dress with an exuberant bow on it's bodice.

Still life presentations are gutsy because the viewer actually sees the quality of the fabrics, the technique of drape and cut and most importantly the beauty of the construction. Runways can mask the pluses and minuses as the clothes saunter by. We were all able to see the artistry that this collection embodies. I went away with one wish only, and that was to see even more. This was like a great story you don't want to end.



Why use the whole alphabet when the first letter says it all?

Fashion's Shop til you Drop Night.......

Well by all the signs it was a hit. There were so many people I had my tail stepped on one too many times. The energy was so high that I felt no pain. It was craziness everywhere. When every major store and important shop is pumping the hordes with champagne, margaritas and Big Appletinis, you really can't miss. It was so packed that every time this cat was swung around I hit every sort of shopper and booze hound in town.

I had to ask Sales Associates everywhere I went if the crowds were shopping or just getting smashed. Most were very candid with their answers. The consensus was that the stores were full but for the most part people were out to party in the new ultimate bar: the luxury department store. The feeling most of these incredibly upbeat and patient Sales Associates expressed was that seeds were sown for shoppers to ruminate on.The hope was that they might remember having seen some must haves when they come to and return to actually buy.

Barneys was jumping throughout. The most intense activity was on the floor where Isabel and Ruben Toledo were signing their coffee table book. Justin Bond aka Kiki of Kiki and Herb was there dressed in Rodarte. It takes a 6'2" cross dresser to really carry off a Rodarte frock. He was Stunning! And so fabulously charming. It was too good to pass up so I had my picture taken with him. That's the closest I've gotten to a Rodarte and I have to admit I was terrified of tearing it. Fortunately, it stayed together despite its tenuous construction. Still the mood was infectious. I've never seen so many happy people....happy drunks . I'm sure I was the only sober shopper within the borough of Manhattan.

The most interesting phenomenon in Bergdorfs,Barney and Saks were the women's shoe departments. That's were the money changed hands, or at best the one department where shoppers swarmed, tried on the merchandise and most likely shopped. It was consistent in each store. From young to old to drag queens, you name it, they were trying everything in sight. The Shoe salesmen and women were run ragged. The best pictures I took were in those departments.

The store that was the most insanely full had to have been DKNY on Madison Ave. There was a female rock violinist who had thousands of people's attention. It was a crush to get in and impossible to exit.I had to slither between the legs of the crowd to escape. The problem with being a Sphinx cat is that everyone wants to touch and hold you. I'm not that crazy about being touched or held by strangers but I tolerated it. I figured if that was free entertainment for the crowds, well that's what tonight was all about. I did my humble bit and topped the night off by buying an expensive coffee table book on the top floor of Barneys. Now off to bed with my new book!

Night night New York.

I had fun!!!

Spring 10 is a blur.

Today a lot of the action kicked off. It was an interesting day and at moments there were very beautiful and compelling pieces. At the very same time there was a feeling of a blur. There were great things that came so fast and furiously that it was hard to take in.

Creativity was not an issue for most. I was more curious what store buyers and the press were thinking. To see the action from the front row is an extra special vantage point. You can see everything; the beauty of the fabrics, the quality and construction and technique that is or isn't evident. I felt like an alien amongst those seasoned journalists and buyers as if I were some strange hybrid . I'm a designer looking at other designer's work from a critical stand point and at the same time I feel like a comrade . There is an empathy that comes with taking in and processing the collections when you've performed the same dance for so many years yourself.

Before I get into what I had the pleasure of seeing today I'd like to just share the theater that is Mercedes Benz Fashion Week. The energy and excitement is truly weird. People, namely the Fashionistas are a very special breed. I guess by profession and proximity I'm one too, only I've never felt like one. I've always felt as though I was on the outside looking in. Today was different. I was in the audience instead of reading the reviews in the NY Times or Women's Wear Daily the following morning. Sitting on the edge of the runway made me feel two interesting emotions. I felt lucky to get a front row seat and also felt a certain nostalgia for the collection that used to bear my name.

That said, I got a real kick out of how deadly serious so many take the scene. No matter how you slice it, this is a circus. The attractions are the collections but the circus is all and everyone that surrounds the spectacle. I want to share some images I shot today before and during the shows I saw. They are evocative of the world of Fashion and the people who live for it and keep it alive . The crowds outside were like supplicants worshiping at a holy site. Weird, when you think of how many people have lived and died believing that salvation lays in a garment.

Pleasure, yes; salvation ? I don't think so.

Enjoy the images. There's the overwhelming shoe story. I was mesmerized by those across the runway, and the ones walking the runway and those of a particular young man dressed smartly. He caught and held my eye by mixing things up; a dress shirt, vest and low slung pants all in super-fine grey flannel. The twist was in his accessories. He sported an important bag and red patent sling backs. He was not the only boy dressed as a cross between male and female, but the most striking. So handsome and so lovely. It was a blur but an amusing one. I have a feeling that this blur, a bending of gender, will somehow inform Fashion as we see it in the coming year. The rules will be tossed to the wind.









Nothing will be as it was, tomorrow.

Different Shades of Grey.

Last night between watching District 9 and Cherie on TV I started to write a post about the new positions that Peter Som and Lars Nillson had just grabbed. Som to Hilfiger and Nillson to do a menswear line for an Italian company. It all seemed so prescient at the time and then I put it aside to watch Cherie with Michelle Pheiffer and Kathy Bates. The film was moving in a strange sort of way. Courtesans of a certain age loving and being loved by much younger men and coming to terms with the facts of life and aging. The clothes, all inspired by Poiret and the Belle Epoque were incredibly beautiful. The shapes, textures and colors of the gowns Michelle wore, including the simple, yet grand jewels were so perfect . Granted we're talking re-creations and costumes, at that, there was a beauty and life to it that made me wonder just a little about what's new and not new. Mostly what's coming up in a few days.

With all the atmosphere of those Belle Epoque interiors, furniture, colors and light in every scene, not to mention a crowded evening shot of Maxim's, Biarritz by day and night and a smokey languid opium den, todays brand of mystery and artfulness, not to mention glamor is sort of thin. I realize that was then and this is now, but when you consider these news flashes about Nillson having been a finalist in the talent phase of the competition to run Halston and now will do menswear in Italy, it just doesn't resonate. It's a hiccup in a dense jungle ...along with much noisier hiccups. Som's deal with Hilfiger is much the same.

I've been merciless in my criticism of Peter Som's work and it gets old even for me, especially when like everyone else he's just trying to make a buck and get from today to tomorrow. But all of that aside, this pairing is as muddy as Nillson's. How do you go down such a loopy, circuitous path and find redemption at Thommy Hilfiger? That's like a vegan suddenly gorging on spam. Well, as we all know jobs are scarce and the choices are not what they were. I hope these shoes fit and manage to stay tied. The press should approach these announcements with a bit more skepticism and let the situation fall into place. Big banner announcements are sort of a jinx at this point. Between the two of them they've clocked about 6 creative directorships in the last 4-5 years. That's not exactly a resume booster . But who knows, the 7th try could do the trick. There's always another company just itching to throw money away.

Just because it's time to go back to school doesn't mean everything has to be different shades of grey. Why not some color in our lives? Even some black is preferable to so much blandness.